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WINE PRESS
December 15, 2005
Friends and fellow wine lovers:
The last tasting of the Essex County Wine Society for
2005 on December 1st was a good one. Victor Marcantonio led us
through a special area in lower Tuscany which produces the most celebrated
example of the Sangiovese grape. We drank wines from eight of the better
producers of Brunello di Montalcino. Jancis Robinson (Vines, Grapes and
Wines, Mitchell Beazley 1999) says that “perhaps more than any other grape
variety, Sangiovese has demonstrated to wine lovers the virtues of clonal
selection”. The clone of Sangiovese Grasso isolated by Biondi-Santi in
Montalcino “produces small quantities of extremely concentrated, tannic [and
expensive – editor’s note] wines.” In the past, wines from Montalcino were
not approachable in their first decade of life. Victor showed some wines
which were indeed concentrated and tannic but with newer vinification
techniques, they were more easily appreciated especially as they sat in the
glass, ageing as it were, over the few hours of the tasting.
The favorite of the group in the tasting was the
Valdicava reserva Madonna del piano. The second place favorite was the
Casanova di Neri, which the society had already purchased for our cellar.
The group recommended that these wines should be served at a society dinner
in five or more years. This Brunello tasting was the first in about five
years when we tasted another five star vintage, 1990. Other recent five
star vintages are 1995, 1997 and 2001. For more information on Brunello di
Montalcino we have (or will have) a link on our web site, ecwsnj.com. (We
are also planning links to wines of New Zealand, Bordeaux, Burgundy, the
Central Coast of California and Languedoc. Other non-commercial
suggestions, please!)
There is a schedule change: the last tasting of the
year on April 6, 2006 will be of older Bordeaux not Burgundy.
The society will have an election in the Spring and
recommendations for officers and a trustee are sought. Contact Richard
Appert, chairman of the nominating committee with names of your possible
nominees.
The next tasting on Thursday, January 5, 2006 will
indeed be special. The 1990 Bordeaux were purchased in 1993 with a future
tasting in mind and have been stored in the society’s cellars. The
executive committee has had long discussions on how and when to present
these nine wines, especially the three first growths and Cheval Blanc. The
increase in the auction and retail prices for all the 1990s have been
nothing less than spectacular rivaling the skyrocketing 1982s. Following
the example of the 1982 first growth Bordeaux, which we had at our 25th
anniversary dinner, we have decided to serve the Chateaux Lafite, Latour,
Margaux and Cheval Blanc at our 35th anniversary dinner in
2007-2008.
The vintage of 1990 is rated 97 by the Wine Spectator
and 98 in St. Estephe, Pauillac, and St. Emilion and 96 in Pomerol by Robert
Parker in the Wine Advocate. Michael Broadbent (Vintage Wine, Harcourt
2002) rates the vintage five stars (out of 5) and calls it one of the
magnificent twins (with 1989). We usually do not list all the wines we will
taste, but in this case – 1990 – we feel we should. The tasting notes to
follow will primarily be from Michael Broadbent (MB) except for those wines
he did not cover. Five of the wines are from the ECWS cellar and an
additional four are from a local private cellar.
The wines in alphabetical order:
L’Arrosee “superfragrant … rich and full
bodied…complex, layered …super effort” (drink now -2015)RPjr;
La Conseillante “now this is my type of wine…very deep;
a huge rich, fleshy mouthful, sweet, balanced” (now – 2015) MB;
L”Evangile “ so rich you could almost spread it on
toast” (now – 2015) MB;
Figeac “sweet, fruity, touch of earthiness, totally
delicious” (now – 2010) MB;
Haut Marbuzet “classic, tannic and concentrated … rich
and opulent …multidimensional” (now - 2007-9) RPjr;
Leoville Las Cases “deep, rich …restrained but
harmonious…powerful, fleshy … tannins both silky and swingeing(sic)
(2010-2020) MB;
Lynch-Bages “deep, rich, velvety … firm crisp
mulberry-like fruit, perfect balance” (soon-2015) MB;
Pichon-Baron “very deep and very sweet … easy style…
crisp black fruit aroma” (2005-2020) MB; and
Pichon-Lalande “delicious, fleshy, exuberant…coffee,
ginger and wholemeal [?] nose” (now – 2015).
The tasting notes of the 1990s we are presenting are
indeed mouth-watering. We expect that our limit of 60 individuals for the
January tasting will be reached so that members will be accepted in the
order of their response. First come, first served. Depending on
availability, those on the guest/waiting list may then be accommodated.
The policy of the society is to base the cost of the
tasting on the purchase price of the wines not their present retail or
auction prices, which may be up to ten times as much. Thus, the cost will
be $49 for members and $64 for guests.
The following tasting on February 2, 2006 will be of
red wines of the Languedoc conducted by Richard Appert.
In vino veritas and a votre sante
Bob and Howard
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